Escaping Bahia del Sol

By Nicole

The VHF radio crackled to life, and we heard our pilot boat firmly instruct us to give Bella Star maximum throttle.  “Maximum throttle, copy that.”

We were charging up the face of ~8’ waves at full speed and crashing down the back side of the breaking swell.  It was a bit tense, but we were doing it!  We were crossing the bar and leaving Bahia del Sol, El Salvador—and its quicksand-like grasp—behind.

So what was it about Bahia del Sol that held us there so resolutely?  Why did we stay tucked away in the estuary for all those <cough> 7 weeks? 

The easy living, beautiful weather and good company were certainly important, but a big part of it, I think, has to do with the feeling of familiarity that develops the longer you sit in one place.  You get to know the people, the bus system, where to go for the best grub… and it all starts feeling very comfortable.  You start putting down tiny little roots, and the longer you stay, the deeper those roots dig in—and the more difficult it becomes to pull them up. 

But enough about leaving Bahia del Sol for the moment.  What about our arrival?  And what did with do with all our time there?

On passage to Bahia del Sol, El Salvador – sailing off the Guatemalan coast

Bahia del Sol, the destination of the Cruisers Rally to El Salvador, lies about a mile up the Jaltepeque estuary in central El Salvador.  The entrance to the estuary is shallow and turbulent with breaking waves, shifting sand bars and strong currents, which makes coming and going a full-fledged event.  You have to time the crossing with high tide and be guided across by a pilot who is in constant contact with you via the VHF radio.  When we first saw the huge rollers guarding the entrance, we figured we’d just have to wait for a calmer day to cross.  But, nope!  Up and over we went.

  Woohoo!  Bella Star goes surfing in El Salvador.

After our heart rates returned to normal and we got officially checked into the country, the Bahia del Sol lifestyle commenced with drinks, pool time and conversation.  And it never stopped.

I hate to say it, but for a place we spent so long, we didn’t take many pictures.  It’s like being at home… how often do you snap photos of the family sitting around the living room?

Anyway, here are a few random images from our time at Bahia del Sol that I hope will give you a feel for the place:

Our home in El Salvador – the Bahia del Sol marina (from the top of Bella Star’s mast)

Sunset over the anchorage and mooring field

  One of the volcanoes towering over the estuary

  $1 beers and pool time

A little exercise to burn off all those $1 beers.  Thanks for the picture, Serendipity!

  We did our internetting at the open-air restaurant just across the deck from the pool.
And we drank lots of coffee …

… Or after, say, 10:30am, beer.  Did I mention they were only $1?

Aaron went up the mast to replace our broken anemometer (a booby landed on it one night and it snapped off)

 Here I am repairing Zack’s mainsail for Panache’s Pacific crossing – so glad I took that sail repair class!

Even out cruising, Aaron likes to keep up the look he calls “sassy.”

 The Barber of Bahia (AKA Hugh from Serendipity).  Total cost?  One beer.  That’s a $1 haircut! 

You know us… we like a good beach bonfire. This one was particularly nice for roasting hotdogs.

The fire starter?  Kerosene!   Zack replaced his kerosene range with a custom propane set-up, so we had to find something to do with all that old fuel.

Drinking El Salvadorian beers at a palapa restaurant in La Herradura, a 4-mile dinghy trip up the estuary. 

Aaron le gusta beber cervezas grandes. 

Note Brahva’s ergonomic bottle and clever tag line, “Brahva beats.” Beats what? Who knows!

The “El Salvador Rally and Bahia del Sol” experience was definitely a good time, and we would recommend it to anyone traveling south from Mexico.  More than anything, I love that it brought us to El Salvador, a country that we ended up really enjoying.  Sure it has its issues (an appalling amount of trash and a general lack of respect for the natural environment top the list for me), but given all the country has been through in the last 25 years, it’s doing pretty well.  It’s the people, though, that I’ll miss the most.  Almost without exception, El Salvadorians are friendly, helpful and proud.  And best of all, they’re always ready with a “Buenos!” and an authentic smile.

I was asked numerous times by the staff at Bahia del Sol, “Cuando devolverá a El Salvador?”  When are you coming back to El Salvador?  “Algún día,” I would reply.  Someday… and I hope that’s true.  But until then, many thanks to El Salvador, Bahia del Sol and the Rally organizers on Mita Kuulu!  Thanks for a memorable experience.

On to Costa Rica!