Sunday, July 1, 2012

Bahia Santa Elena, Costa Rica (pre-lightning)

By Nicole

When we were cruising British Columbia, we’d often go a week or more without seeing another boat.  We relished the solitude of these remote, beautiful anchorages knowing that it wouldn’t be long before we’d be sharing an anchorage (and trading stories over cocktails) again soon.  For one or two nights, we even got an anchorage in the Sea of Cortez all to ourselves.  But that hadn’t happened for a very long time – until we arrived in Costa Rica, that is.

Bahia Santa Elena, just over the Nicaraguan border, is an exceptional place.  It’s part of the Santa Rosa National Park, which protects some of the last remaining tropical dry rainforest in the world (and explains why we saw cacti and rattlesnakes along with palm trees and parrots).  After spending 6 weeks in El Salvador where deforestation and trash are enormous problems, the lushness and natural beauty of Bahia Santa Elena was a welcome change.

The bay is alive with sights and sounds and smells – parrots and other tropical birds chitter-chatter in the trees, howler monkeys hoot to one another, butterflies in blue, yellow, orange and black flit by, fish swim and splash all around the boat, the fragrant smell of plumeria blossoms wafts down from the hills and at night, twinkling fireflies compete with the stars. 

Just outside the entrance to the bay are some fantastic snorkeling grounds, and jungle-lined trails beg to be explored.  All in all, it’s a perfect spot to spend a week or two relaxing, hiking, bird watching, swimming and snorkeling.  And that’s just what we did.

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Early morning tranquility

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Cactus fields forever

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Dinghy exploring (love those dinghy wheels)

DSC_3047 Spiky tree

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Gorgeous views out the entrance to Nicaragua

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I like long walks on the beach and piña coladas

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Hiking the trail to the (tiny) waterfall …

P5240574 when the trail is actually a stream.

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Sweet-smelling plumeria blossom

P5240605 Off on a snorkeling adventure (and to check out the cool stratigraphy)

P5240609 Snorkel time

P5240669 Aaron contemplates the decision to have a beer or a rum & Coke for happy hour

P5260729 Bella Star at anchor in Bahia Santa Elena.  Aaron joked that it was so calm it was like we were in the boatyard.  Awesome.

P5303096Nice.  Very nice.

The peace was broken, however, with the arrival of another boat.  It was Panache!  Yay!  Zack decided to take a scenic detour on his way to the Marquesas with a stop in gorgeous Costa Rica.  Never mind that we’d accidentally absconded with his point-and-shoot camera and he needed to retrieve it … Oops!  Now that the three of us were back together, it was time to have some fun …

(Want the full story on the camera incident and Zack’s thwarted attempts to leave El Salvador? Check out SailPanache.com.)

6 comments:

  1. Oh my gosh, that WATER is 91 degrees?? I'm so jealous.

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    1. Yeah, it was super warm! Actually, when we were snorkeling we'd hit patches around the rocks that were much hotter than that, even uncomfortably hot. But it sure is nice to be able to jump off the boat for a nice swim whenever you want.

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  2. Thanks for blazing a path for us to follow! Natalie and I are quickly approaching our 2 year mark to cruising south. If you want to meet the baby boy that was growing in Natalie's belly when you visited San Diego you can meet him -> http://aboardastraea.com

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    1. Ohmygosh, congratulations! Sullivan is absolutely adorable -- and it looks like he's already completely comfortable as a liveaboard! Best wishes and big hugs.
      -Nicole and Aaron

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  3. More Joy EverywhereJuly 2, 2012 at 5:02 PM

    Beautiful! This is an area that is NOT well covered by the cruising guides I have seen. How did you find this magical place?

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    Replies
    1. We have a couple cruising guides for Central America that pointed us to this gorgeous spot:
      - "Cruising Ports the Central American Route" by Capt. Pat Rains
      - "Exploring Central America Part 1, 2" by s/v Sarana (these PDF guides are available for download here http://www.svsarana.com/central_america_guidebook.php)

      Hope that helps!
      -Nicole

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