Escaping Bahia del Sol

By Nicole

The VHF radio crackled to life, and we heard our pilot boat firmly instruct us to give Bella Star maximum throttle.  “Maximum throttle, copy that.”

We were charging up the face of ~8’ waves at full speed and crashing down the back side of the breaking swell.  It was a bit tense, but we were doing it!  We were crossing the bar and leaving Bahia del Sol, El Salvador—and its quicksand-like grasp—behind.

So what was it about Bahia del Sol that held us there so resolutely?  Why did we stay tucked away in the estuary for all those <cough> 7 weeks? 

The easy living, beautiful weather and good company were certainly important, but a big part of it, I think, has to do with the feeling of familiarity that develops the longer you sit in one place.  You get to know the people, the bus system, where to go for the best grub… and it all starts feeling very comfortable.  You start putting down tiny little roots, and the longer you stay, the deeper those roots dig in—and the more difficult it becomes to pull them up. 

But enough about leaving Bahia del Sol for the moment.  What about our arrival?  And what did with do with all our time there?

On passage to Bahia del Sol, El Salvador – sailing off the Guatemalan coast

Bahia del Sol, the destination of the Cruisers Rally to El Salvador, lies about a mile up the Jaltepeque estuary in central El Salvador.  The entrance to the estuary is shallow and turbulent with breaking waves, shifting sand bars and strong currents, which makes coming and going a full-fledged event.  You have to time the crossing with high tide and be guided across by a pilot who is in constant contact with you via the VHF radio.  When we first saw the huge rollers guarding the entrance, we figured we’d just have to wait for a calmer day to cross.  But, nope!  Up and over we went.

  Woohoo!  Bella Star goes surfing in El Salvador.

After our heart rates returned to normal and we got officially checked into the country, the Bahia del Sol lifestyle commenced with drinks, pool time and conversation.  And it never stopped.

I hate to say it, but for a place we spent so long, we didn’t take many pictures.  It’s like being at home… how often do you snap photos of the family sitting around the living room?

Anyway, here are a few random images from our time at Bahia del Sol that I hope will give you a feel for the place:

Our home in El Salvador – the Bahia del Sol marina (from the top of Bella Star’s mast)

Sunset over the anchorage and mooring field

  One of the volcanoes towering over the estuary

  $1 beers and pool time

A little exercise to burn off all those $1 beers.  Thanks for the picture, Serendipity!

  We did our internetting at the open-air restaurant just across the deck from the pool.
And we drank lots of coffee …

… Or after, say, 10:30am, beer.  Did I mention they were only $1?

Aaron went up the mast to replace our broken anemometer (a booby landed on it one night and it snapped off)

 Here I am repairing Zack’s mainsail for Panache’s Pacific crossing – so glad I took that sail repair class!

Even out cruising, Aaron likes to keep up the look he calls “sassy.”

 The Barber of Bahia (AKA Hugh from Serendipity).  Total cost?  One beer.  That’s a $1 haircut! 

You know us… we like a good beach bonfire. This one was particularly nice for roasting hotdogs.

The fire starter?  Kerosene!   Zack replaced his kerosene range with a custom propane set-up, so we had to find something to do with all that old fuel.

Drinking El Salvadorian beers at a palapa restaurant in La Herradura, a 4-mile dinghy trip up the estuary. 

Aaron le gusta beber cervezas grandes. 

Note Brahva’s ergonomic bottle and clever tag line, “Brahva beats.” Beats what? Who knows!

The “El Salvador Rally and Bahia del Sol” experience was definitely a good time, and we would recommend it to anyone traveling south from Mexico.  More than anything, I love that it brought us to El Salvador, a country that we ended up really enjoying.  Sure it has its issues (an appalling amount of trash and a general lack of respect for the natural environment top the list for me), but given all the country has been through in the last 25 years, it’s doing pretty well.  It’s the people, though, that I’ll miss the most.  Almost without exception, El Salvadorians are friendly, helpful and proud.  And best of all, they’re always ready with a “Buenos!” and an authentic smile.

I was asked numerous times by the staff at Bahia del Sol, “Cuando devolverá a El Salvador?”  When are you coming back to El Salvador?  “Algún día,” I would reply.  Someday… and I hope that’s true.  But until then, many thanks to El Salvador, Bahia del Sol and the Rally organizers on Mita Kuulu!  Thanks for a memorable experience.

On to Costa Rica!

Summiting an active volcano (and saying goodbye)

By Nicole

There’s something thrilling about standing on the rim of an active volcano, looking down into the crater and imagining the sheer force required to blast such an impressive hole in the Earth.  It’s even more exhilarating when the volcano you’re peering into erupted suddenly just 7 years ago.

 Vibrant crater lake inside the active Santa Ana volcano

At over 7,800’, the Santa Ana volcano, also known as Ilamatepec, is El Salvador’s highest peak. In October 2005, the volcano violently erupted, sending ash and debris 14 km high. While the base of the mountain is forested today, the upper portion is still barren and Mars-like.  It was something we just had to see, and despite how luxurious it sounds, one can only lounge by the pool and drink $1 beers for so long.  No really.  The collective feet of Bella Star, Panache and  Knee Deep were getting itchy to get out and see another side of El Salvador.  And what better way to cure itchy feet than hiking a volcano?

Being the cheap cruisers that we are, we opted to skip the expensive, chartered trip ($300 per person!) and navigate the efficient El Salvadorian bus system on our own.  All told, it took 5 bus transfers to make it from the marina to the town of Santa Ana where we home-based for our explorations.  Again wanting to save some money, we picked a hotel described by the guidebook as offering “slightly cheaper rooms with basic conveniences like cable TV, fans, and private baths in a no-frills atmosphere.”  Perfect, right? 

Well, what we didn’t realize is that Hotel Tazumal was located squarely in the slightly seedy, strip-club laden area of town.  Yes, it was only $15/night.  Yes, Aaron and I split the cost with Zack, bringing the price to $5 per person.  And yes, sometimes you do get exactly what you pay for. What $15 in the Red Light District got us. No hot water, no blankets, no towels and a hand-written sign on the wall informing us that having sexual relations with a minor is a crime punishable by prison time. Good to know…  And although Aaron, Zack and I were pleasantly cockroach-free in our room, Knee Deep’s room had a big guy we named Fredrick.

After one night in the hooker motel, we all decided to open our wallets a little farther and spring for a room with, oh, I don’t know… a lack of informational posters on the wall demonstrating proper condom usage.

But back to the volcano.

The next morning, Aaron, Zack and I hopped a bus to the Cerro Verde Volcanoes National Park, where the hikes up the Izalco and Ilamatepec volcanoes are organized.  The bus wound up the mountainside at an incredible rate of speed, but the views of the lush jungle as we climbed higher and higher into the cloud forest made the slightly terrifying ride worth it. 

We had an hour or so to kill before the guided hike started, so we prepared for the 12 km climb by stuffing our bellies with the (incredible) traditional El Salvadorian breakfast of fried eggs, refried beans, a wedge of cheese, fried plantains and a roll.  And when I say “traditional,” I mean it.  Even the Wendy’s serves it!  And for good reason… it’s freaking delicious.  I’ve got to learn how to make the sweet, tender fried plantains.  OMG, they are heavenly.

The hikes leave from Cerro Verde once per day at 11am, and if you aren’t there by 10:45 to claim your guide, you’re out of luck.  Our guide, Irving, was awesome.  In addition to providing information on the volcano, he was also a wealth of knowledge about the flora and fauna of the region.  He and I hiked next to each other for the 6 km climb so I could translate for the group.  I must admit, it felt great to understand him—both because the information was so interesting and because I was actually able to do it!

Not only did the $8 fee get us a well-informed guide, it also paid for two armed police officers, one taking the point position and one bringing up the rear.  When I asked our guide if the trail was dangerous, he said no.  When I asked him why we needed the escorts, he said, “For your safety!”  Ha.

 Standing on the rim, looking down to the lake at least 1,000’ (!) below

 Panoramic view from the crater’s edge

 
For a little perspective… I’m the black spot in the middle of the path circling the crater.  This thing is huge!

Moderately cheesy family picture

Paparazzi Zack

Trekking the 6 km back down the mountain went quickly (Irving said we were in good shape—I guess our beer curls paid off!).  We were hot from the hiking, but descending into the dense clouds enshrouding the park provided the perfect natural air conditioning to cool us off.  Nestled in the damp cloud forest, surrounded by the beauty of the mist as it clung to trees and flowers was the perfect cap to our day in Cerro Verde.

 Cloud forest

 Eerie, foggy, surreal

 Cascading orchids in the mist

 Bright orange berries pop against the foggy background

The wild bus ride up the mountain proved to be nothing compared to the trip down.  The fog was so dense we couldn’t see more than a few feet ahead.  Did that stop the driver from barreling down the narrow, winding road bordered by treacherous cliffs and littered with a mix of pedestrians, dogs and speeding cars?  Nah.  These guys are professionals. 

Our time in Santa Ana wasn’t all seamy motels and volcanoes, though.  We also walked around the historic district and came across this ornate, neo-Gothic cathedral.

Catedral de la Señora Santa Ana

 
J.P., Aaron and Mickey take a little break

Zack gets puppy bites outside the cathedral

Pigeons and churches go together like hot dogs and ketchup.

While we all had a great time touring El Salvador, this trip marked the end of an era—it was the last trip that we’d be able to take with Knee Deep and Panache.  When Ventured left the herd back in Manzanillo, I was totally wrecked.  But I knew that the fun of buddy-boating would live on with the other two boats in our flotilla.

But now Knee Deep is heading back to California for a few months, as much to work and add a little extra money to the cruising kitty as to avoid the summer storms that frequent this area.  Depending on how slowly we go through Costa Rica and Panama, they may very well catch up with us.  We’ve had some amazing times with Ben, Molly and the boys, and we’re going to miss their daily presence in our lives tremendously.  We’ll see you in Panama this fall, guys!  We’ll have some cold beers waiting!  And a couple jugo de naranjas.

 Bye, Doolittles!  See ya in Panama!

The girls…

And the boyz.  Crazy fun.

Zack on Panache is going even farther afield—all the way across ocean to the South Pacific.  We’ve spent virtually every day with him for the past 4 months or so, and I think I’m in denial that he’s really leaving.  He likes to joke that we adopted him (we did consider claiming him as a dependent on our taxes), so I guess it makes sense that I’m having a hard time letting my chick out of the nest.

  Adios, little chivo

I know I’ve mentioned this before, but the friendships that develop out here are intense and extraordinary.  We’ll certainly meet new, interesting people (we already have!), but the three boats we left La Cruz with will always hold an incredibly special place in my memories.  Until we meet again (and we will!), goodbye and fair winds Panache and Knee Deep.

San Cristobal, Mexico

By Nicole

Situated at more than 7,000’ in the Central Highlands of Chiapas, Mexico, the mountain town of San Cristobal was first founded by the Spanish in 1528.  The mix of old colonial charm and local Mayan traditions gives the city a unique vibe that I found fascinating.  I only wish I’d packed warmer clothes!  After acclimating to daily temperatures around 85 degrees, 40 degrees felt absolutely frigid.

Our hotel, El Buen Samaritano.  Nice and cheap, but so unbelievably cold!  No heaters and no hot water the first night we were there.

Being a Spanish colonial town, San Cristobal has more than its fair share of churches.  It seemed liked we found another photo-worthy church around every corner.

One of my favorite parts about checking out a new city is finding the central market.  I love being bombarded by the vibrant colors, the mix of pungent smells and the loud din of people buying and selling.

 
Colorful produce piled up in buckets and strung from the eaves (look at the size of those grapes!)

Mayan women selling produce in their typical style of dress—long, black, fuzzy woolen skirts with wide belts and embroidered wraps

Perfect pyramids of tomatoes and freshwater snails by the bowlful

Mangoes!  See the small peachy colored ones?
They’re my favorite—juicy, sweet and delicious.

 Chicken, anyone?

If you’re looking for more than produce, snails, whole chickens, flip flops, black-market DVDs and blender parts, head a few blocks down to the artisans market.  Hundreds of stalls are stocked with beautifully embroidered fabrics, delicately woven scarves, plush woolen sweaters and handmade jewelry.

Overlooking the artisans market with, yep, a church in the background

Shuffling through the stacks of embroidered mats for just the right one.  You can’t see them, but I’m wearing a new scarf and turquoise bracelet from the artisans market too.

Outside of the market district, we strolled down pedestrian-friendly streets lined with sidewalk cafes, chocolatiers and quaint shops.  We enjoyed cup after cup of delicious local coffee and savored some of the best food and chocolate (oh, the chocolate!) we’ve had in ages.

  Sitting in one of the sidewalk cafes (brrrr!).  I’m so glad I bought a scarf! 

 
Like elsewhere in Mexico, roving salespeople make the rounds.  As Aaron likes to say, if you stand in one place long enough, anything you want to buy (and lots of stuff you don’t) will walk by…

 The view of San Cristobal from the steps of (wait for it) another church

Just a few miles out of San Cristobal are a number of Maya villages where local people have maintained many of their traditional practices.  As part of our tour, we got to take a peek into daily life in the communities of Zinacantan and San Juan Chamula.

 It poured while we were here, but the sun finally broke through the clouds and bathed the Zinacantan Catholic church in beautiful afternoon light.

  A Mayan woman making corn tortillas.  I could probably eat my weight in fresh tortillas—no joke.

 Weaving demonstration using a backstrap loom

From Zinacantan, we drove a few miles through pine forests and farmlands to the conservative Tzotzil Maya village of San Juan Chamula. People here are unique among the Maya in the way they blend traditional (and non-traditional) Mayan religious practices with Catholicism. From what our driver said, there’s also quite a bit of violence within the community. In fact, a gun battle in town earlier in the day almost prevented us from going.  Almost…

  The Catolico Tradicionalista church in the conservative Maya community of San Jan Chamula.

From the outside, the church in the (now peaceful) town square looked like any other. But inside, pews were removed and a carpet of fragrant pine needles covered the bare floor. The only light came from hundreds of small candles burning at the feet of full-sized Catholic saint effigies. Imagine 50 or so elaborately dressed mannequins, each representing a different saint, displayed in life-sized glass boxes lining the walls of the church. I’d never seen anything like it.  And unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take pictures.

Small groups of people knelt in the pine before particular saints, offering candles and prayers for health or wealth or any number of things. A shaman woman sat with one family, performing a healing ceremony. She broke the neck of a live chicken, waved sage leaves over the floor and drank Coke—all to rid the ill person of his sickness.

I felt a little uncomfortable getting a tour of the church—how would a Catholic in the U.S. feel about a foreign tour group crashing Sunday mass? But watching the shaman practice by candlelight and being surrounded by the strong scents of pine, smoke and incense was quite an experience to say the least.

After our tour, we were all ready for some dinner and drinks.  We stumbled on a great bar with draft beer at happy hour prices (it wasn’t anything like the Huanacaxtle Café’s 10 peso deal, but it was still a treat).  With lots of 2-for-1 specials warming our bellies, we grabbed some dinner, headed back to the hotel and burrowed under layers and layers of blankets (emblazoned with wolves and other critters).  The plus side to being so cold?  I learned the Spanish word for blanket!  It’s cobija.

 And you thought I was kidding

Despite the cold, we had an awesome time with the crews of Bravo and Nanna in San Cristobal.  In fact the entire inland tour of Chiapas – the waterfalls, the ruins of Palenque and the colonial town of San Cristobal – was amazing.  We almost decided to skip the trip (to save money and get to El Salvador faster), but I’m so glad we reconsidered.  I mean, it’s not every night that you get to sleep under a howling wolf blanket, right?