Desolation Sound

By Nicole

Perhaps on that rainy, dreary June night in 1792 when Captain George Vancouver entered this magnificent place—where lush, forested mountainsides touch the sea and snow-capped peaks rise over a maze of inlets and passages—it seemed inhospitable and forlorn.  In these deep waters, he searched for a suitable anchorage for his ship, Discovery, as it drifted about as if “it were blindfolded in this labyrinth.”

The islands, coves and channels that make up Desolation Sound are much less ominous and gloomy today, and if Captain Vancouver could have known how this area would materialize into one of British Columbia’s most popular cruising destinations, he may very well have settled on a more suitable name.

Grace Harbour, Desolation Sound

After a sleepless night in the rocky Copeland Islands, finding an anchorage with a sticky mud bottom was our top priority, so we made Grace  Harbour our first stop in Desolation Sound.  We spent two days reading, tinkering, listening to the rain and catching up on sleep, only going ashore once (escorted by one very vocal loon).

Prideaux Haven, Desolation Sound

Rounding the corner from our cozy, protected nook in Grace Harbour, we were blasted with 20-knot winds and driving rain as we headed for the ultimate Desolation Sound anchorage: Prideaux Haven.

In season (July and August), the coves that make up Prideaux Haven are filled with upwards of 30 boats.  But on this blustery day in mid May, we pulled into beautiful Laura Cove and found we had the place to ourselves.  What a treat!  We poked around, seeking out the ideal spot to drop the anchor (in sticky mud) and settled on the head of the cove, near a small but boisterous waterfall hidden in the woods. 

Look closely.  Can you spot Bella Star?

With a picnic lunch packed (and the sun coming out), we headed off to explore the lagoons and coves in the dinghy.  Surprisingly, we were the only boat in the whole place!  What a difference a few months makes… 


In the dinghy, heading out to explore.

Not being able to rely on Aaron ’s high school French classes (and lacking access to the internet at the current moment), I have no idea what “Prideaux Haven” means.  But it must be something good – it’s gorgeous here!

Picture majestic, forest-covered mountains dusted with fresh snow that plunge from elevations of over 6,000 feet straight down into the water.  Imagine enormous boulders rising from the crystal-clear water, their tops covered with moss and pink wild flowers and their submerged faces dotted with purple sea stars and oysters.  Smell the crisp scent of pine and fir trees mingling with salt air and the tangy fresh fragrance of spring.  And listen to trickling streams cascading down from the woods, waterfowl quacking, eagles screeching and in between it all, silence.

With digs like this, we just might stay awhile.

Spared from the glaciation that rounded nearby peaks, pointy Mt. Denman stands tall.

Aaron gives a wave – and a sense of scale. 

It’s spring, and that means many wildflowers are in bloom – especially the bright pink tufts of allium.

Two Canada geese paddle by in the foreground.  It’s gosling season, and we’ve seen dozens of fuzzy, yellow babies.  So cute.

I popped over a rock and startled a momma or daddy goose sitting on a nest of eggs (and felt horrible). I high-tailed it out of there, but thought to snap a quick picture.  Luckily after a good bit of squawking, the goose resettled back on the nest.

History

The entire Desolation Sound region has a fascinating history, stretching from First Nations inhabitants to European explorers to rugged homesteaders of the early 1900s.

In Grace Harbour, we anchored near a historic winter village for the Sliammon, Klahoose and Homalco people.  At Laura Cove in Prideaux Haven, we walked on the same small island where Captain Vancouver’s crew came ashore to investigate an abandoned longhouse.  And as we rowed the dinghy to shore at the head of Laura Cove, we saw evidence of a homesteader named Phil Lavigne’s land dating from the early to mid-1900s (where he lived out his life gardening, fishing and keeping goats).

Being able to connect with a destination and learn about the people who’ve helped shape its history makes travelling even more enjoyable.  I think it’s the difference between just visiting and truly experiencing.

Next stop, Squirrel Cove to pick up a few groceries, do laundry and, most importantly, find an internet connection!

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Many books have been written on the captivating history of Desolation Sound and the people who called it home.   A few of our favorites:

• Desolation Sound: A History (Heather Harbord)
• The Curve of Time (M. Wylie Blanchet)
• Following the Curve of Time (Cathy Converse)