Isla Cedros

By Nicole

After a two-night passage from Ensenada, complete with breaching humpback whales during the day and a sky full of stars at night, we arrived at Isla Cedros.  And for the first time since Canada, we had an anchorage all to ourselves.  I tell you what, after spending more than a week in the noisy, dusty boatyard, being anchored off a beautiful island with only the sound of seabirds and waves to break the silence was heaven.

Approaching Isla Cedros, Baja California

We anchored off a gravel and cobblestone beach near a large arroyo (dry stream bed). The water is so clear that we could actually see all the way down the anchor chain to the white sand below (in 20’ of water). I’m sure that’s something we’ll see more of in the coming months, but it was a first for us.

Bella Star at anchor

Wanting to explore a little bit and work off at least one or two of those fish tacos, we ventured out on a hike up the arroyo.  The landscape here is arid, rocky and dotted with cacti and other brown, shrubby bushes (boy, do I need a field guide…).  I’m sure after a good rain, when the desert plants are in full bloom and the arroyo is running with water, it’s a completely different place.  As we hiked further up the stream bed, we could almost picture what it would look like with water cascading over giant boulders, pooling in deep crevices and running its way to the sea.

Winding our way over and around rocks as we followed the stream bed

Interesting succulents/cacti that resembled gigantic artichokes

 
Hiking east to the ridgeline

We found evidence that someone trekked here before us (they left a sign in rocks that said “2007”).  They also left all sorts of rock towers (Aaron added to them as we went by).  Makes me wonder just how often this arroyo actually sees water.

An amazingly blue sky (and Aaron out in front)

We weren’t the only critters to follow the arroyo… Aaron claimed it was a chupacabra.  Watch out!

A lone crow gave us the eye

Back on the boat, we lounged around in the sun, watched schools of fish and tiny squid (?) get terrorized by seabirds and managed to finish up a few projects.

Being anchored off Isla Cedros felt like a return to cruising – the kind of cruising we experienced in Canada, where we were surrounded by nature and solitude.

Since leaving Washington two months ago, we’ve travelled over 1,500 miles.  It’s been a long, foggy, chilly road, but we finally feel like we’ve made it to the Mexico we dreamed about on those dreary Seattle evenings, holed up from the rain.  Fittingly, on the very day we arrived at Isla Cedros, we celebrated 6th months of cruising.  And how better to celebrate than anchored out in brilliant blue water under sunny Mexican skies.